is when the shank of a ring is either shortened
or lengthened to improve the fit of the ring.
The size required is determined by a set of ring
gauges which use the letters of the alphabet to
indicate the size required. ("A" being
the smallest). The ring should fit tightly on
the knuckle but still be able to pass over it.
To decrease or size down - a piece
of the shank is cut away (approx. 1mm per size
decrease) . To increase or size up
the shank is cut and a gap made to accommodate
the additional metal (1mm per size increase)
CLICK HERE TO SEE A VIDEO OF
A RING BEING SIZED DOWN.
(See a claw in the image Parts of Ring Head) Through general
wear and tear the claws of a ring are worn down
and this can lead to the loss of stones from a
setting. A point to note we are often asked to
supply one claw only, it is very rare that one
or two claws need replacing only . When one claw
falls off it is likely that the others are weak.
It is more likely that all claws would need replacing,
it is recommended that the item is sent in so
that, the whole setting can be checked and an
estimate will be provided for the work needed.
involves the removal of the stone from a setting,
if it hasn't already fallen out, the old claws
are then cut away to the base , new claws soldered
on and then any stones are reset. Please allow
3/4 weeks for this process. We suggest mentioning
to your customer that the alteration will tend
to change the appearance slightly of the setting
as the worn areas will have extra gold added.
CLICK HERE TO SEE
A CLUSTER RING BEING RECLAWED.
Shanks - (see the shank of a ring in the image Parts of a Ring)
It is sometimes necessary to replace the shank of a ring when
there has been excessive wear or damage to either the back
of the band or less often the complete area of the shank including
the shoulders. The process involves cutting away the worn
or damaged section and then soldering a new piece into the
ring. The ring is then sent to the assay office for hallmarking,
this is required by law. The process takes approx. 4-5 weeks.
Shanks are also replaced if sizing the ring would make the
shank too thin, when the gold used in the manufacturer of
the ring is faulty,when the shoulders are too thin to support
a 3/4 shank, or a customer wants to change the colour of the
metal for example from white gold to yellow gold.
A setting is needed if the sides, as well as the claws,
of a setting are worn as claws cannot be soldered onto a feeble
base. It can also be used to change the look of a ring by either
altering the style of a setting e.g. from claws to rubover setting
or to change the type of metal used e.g. yellow to white gold.
The process involves removing any stones from the setting ,
removing and replacing the old setting and then resetting any
stones. This process usually takes 3-4 weeks. It is advisable to mention to your customer that the alteration
will tend to change the appearance slightly of the setting as
the worn areas will have extra gold added. Click here
to read in detail about the different settings
Rebuilds- This process is undertaken when the sides or parts of a setting
are worn away, usually on a ring that is not claw set. A piece
of metal is soldered over the worn section and shaped to fit
the original look of the ring.
It is advisable to mention to your customer that the alteration
will tend to change the appearance slightly of the setting
as the worn areas will have extra gold added.
These are the authorised stamp impressions that
indicate maker, standard of fineness and the Assay office
the Hallmark was issued. Older hallmarks also include the
year of manufacture, this is symbolised by a letter the font
of which changes with every cycle of the alphabet. They are
required by law if a piece of gold (9ct,14ct,18ct and 22ct)
or platinum weighs more than 1 gram (7 grams for silver).
Some rings have very faint hallmarks and these can be removed
by the sizing process, this should be anticipated and the
customers advised accordingly. Any rings requiring Hallmarking
have to be sent to an Assay Office, allow three weeks for
this process. Points to note, if a previous repair has been
undertaken using an inferior metal e.g. silver instead of
white gold, the item will fail the assay. New items which
we supply will of course require hallmarking.
imported rings may have laser hallmarks, these hallmarks are only burnt on to the surface
of the metal by a laser they can be very faint.
Click here to read more about Hallmarks
Castings - This is the process used when many of the same item are required.
A rubber mould is made of the original piece of jewellery
to be copied . The original piece of jewellery is removed
and a cavity is left which is then injected with liquid wax
which cools , making a replica copy. The wax is then covered
with a similar solution to plaster which dries solid to form
a casing. The wax is burnt out and molten gold is poured into
the casing using centrifugal force to ensure the gold fills
every detail to make a clone of the original.
Handmade Mounts - This is when a customer requires an original
design not available from the casting supplier or when they
express a preference for a handmade mount. The process involves
receiving accurate instructions and drawings that detail the
customers requirements and can take 5-6 weeks.
Remounts - We can remount most styles of rings. Remounting involves changing the head and sometimes the shank of a ring but still using the the original stones. We can source many different styles of settings and usually are a good match to the original.
These are available in all types of metals including different carats of gold, white gold and platinum.
If a particular style is not available we can hand make to match best possible. This takes a little longer to do and is often more expensive but enables us to re-create any type of ring or setting.
We can also make most types of rings/settings from specific drawings.
We can provide a free of charge estimate before work is carried out.